Musk, a popular perfume fixative since ancient times, was traditionally obtained from the gland of the male musk deer, Moschus moschiferus. The animal was usually killed in the process.
Between thirty and fifty deer would die to provide two pounds of musk grains. Due to the high demand of musk and indiscriminate hunting, populations of musk deers were severely depleted. Musk deer is now protected by law in China, Mongolia, Afghanistan, Bhutan, India, Nepal, and Pakistan. International trade of musk from Moschus moschiferus is prohibited.
For legal and ethical reasons, many perfume companies use synthetic musk: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds, and macrocyclic musk compounds. Synthetic musk compounds have been found in human fat, breast milk, and in lakes and rivers. Scientists from State University of New York at Albany found synthetic musks in most breast milk samples collected in Massachusetts in 2007 in concentration of "five times greater than the concentrations reported 10 years ago for breast milk samples collected in Germany and Denmark." (Reiner, Wong, Arcaro, Kannan 2007).
Synthetic musks, along with bisphenol-A, phthalates, fire retardants, aluminium, and paraben preservatives, are classified as xeno-estrogens, synthetic compounds that mimic the action of the hormone beta-estradiol and activating the estrogen receptors (Singleton, Feng et al, 2004). Xeno-estrogens are linked to reproductive and fertility problems, as well as breast and uterine cancer in women (Donovan, Tiwary 2007) and testicular cancer in men (Irvin 2000).
Today the use of some nitromusks in cosmetics and personal care products is banned in European Union. In the United States, all musk chemicals are unregulated, and safe levels of exposure have not yet been set.
Some plants, such as garden angelica (Angelica archangelica) and ambrette seeds (Abelmoschus moschatus), produce musky- smelling aromatic compounds that are widely used in natural perfumery as substitutes for natural musk. Other plant sources of musk include musk flower (Mimulus moschatus) and the muskwood (Olearia argophylla) of the Guianas and West Indies.
So if you are very partial to musk, choose a botanical musk fragrance from a reputable green fragrance brand.
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