double-boiler-bain-marieTo make creams, balms, salves, and soaps, you will need to heat and even boil a lot of natural waxes and butters. Some waxes and butters can be heated directly over the low or medium heat but this process may destroy some of the valuable phytochemicals and vitamins in the oils. Double-boiling to direct boiling is the same as steaming vegetables is to deep-frying. Boiling water rarely becomes hotter than 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius). Not only double-boiling preserves most of the important microelements in the ingredient, it also allows for more controlled mixing and blending as you heat the butter, wax, or oil.

This technique is commonly referred to as a double boiler, Bain Marie, Bain de Marie and even au Bain Marie.

A double boiler is simply a pot placed on top of another pot with boiling water in it, over a heat source. You can buy the pots already assembled or you can find two fitting pots in your kitchen. The pots should be cast iron, glass, or enameled steel. Never use aluminum or Teflon-coated pots and pans as they will leach carcinogenic compounds in your skincare.

Simple double-boiling technique:

1. Arrange two saucepans or a large saucepan and a Pyrex bowl (even a steel coffee pot would do), so that one fits loosely into another.

2. Fill the large pan with water so that the level of the water is approximately 3 inches below the rim of the smaller pan.

3. Place the wax or the butter into the smaller bowl.

4. As the water in the large bowl boils over medium heat, handle the large bowl with great care so that the water doesn't get into the melting ingredients.

5. Remove the double boiler from the heat source once the wax has turned into a liquid.

Other method of melting your waxes or butters is microwaving. While I do not recommend cooking your food in a microwave, it is a viable shortcut to quickly melt an ingredient for cosmetic use. Just make sure to microwave in a glass container, never in plastic, and to stand really far back from the device while it's working. Stir the liquid well to dissolve any hot spots.

Tip: to prevent grains from forming in your balms and butters, after heating and melting, cover your product and place it in the freezer for about 10-15 minutes.